(from romeroUK's Muller Dynamo replication notes, as posted on overunity.com)
ELECTRONICS
5W bulb extra o/p, when o/p looped back to i/p
The capacitor u see in the video is connected before the DC/DC regulator, direct to the bridge rectifier.I had one at the output but it does not make any difference with the regulator in place
The capacitor used is 47000uf/25volts.
hall switch is A3144
2 hall sensors. I will take some closer pictures to see them.The side of the rotor has small magnets with south pointing out.
Let's clarify some points regarding the sensors:
not both of them are using the small magnets.I started originally with both using the small magnets to switch then I tried to move one to get max results.
The second one is facing the big magnets from the top.This one from the top is activated after the magnet passed, the other one on the side of the rotor is activated like 1mm after the magnet passed the center coil.
This is difficult to explain, testing yourself will get you there but do the testing separate not both of then at the same time.
I had a question about why is one sensor on the side and another one on top of the big magnets:
After trying all different positions I got is running like that and I have not tried again to have them using the same spot. It worked then I moved on,... thinking to go back but later having nice results I didn't care anymore.
I call it pin 1 the voltage in, from plus goes to pin 1 thru a 100ohm resistor.
Not wishing to detract from your achievement but it is my understanding that the A3144 has a built in voltage regulator so no resistor is needed in the supply to pin 1. However, as Ground loop pointed out there should be a 5 to 10K resistor from pin 3 to + supply as a pullup for the open collector.
Normally this resistor can go from pin 1 to pin 3.
I understand now.I know there is a lot of improvement that can be done on driving circuit.I used something I tested and used many times before. Any driver circuit will do, even simple bedini if the driving coils are made that way.
[bourne:
I have been searching around for the Hall effect sensors and have found the A3144uea has been discontinued.
One of the manufacturers suggests the A1120EUA-T as an alternative
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6
would you agree this is what we need?]
[gyula:
Here is the manufacturer recommendation on replacement:
http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Part_Numbers/3141/
so it is type A1104 which is available as replacement.
EDIT type A1120 is a more precise (chopper stabilized) type, probably more expensive, with the same voltage and 25mA output current ratings. So not really needed once the A1104 would do. Of course prices are to be compared, I do not know by heart... ALSO: any such type should work like toranarod suggests above]
I bought my sensors on ebay, from China. I bought 40, I always buy more than I need, just in case...
[gyula:
I think you can reduce the input current draw for the Hall switch + the TIP42C by inserting a series resistor between Pin 3 of the Hall and the base of the TIP42. As it is shown in the schematic
( http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3842.0;attach=52576 )
Pin 3 is an open collector and directly connected to the +12V via the base-emitter junction of the transistor, there is no any current limiting for the junction and for the inside Hall switching transistor.
I do realize that your circuit works as it is shown but I guess at least a 30 - 40mA current draw could be saved per one TIP42C by inserting a 680 Ohm to 1 kOhm resistor between Pin 3 and the base electrode while the switching would take place still safely, for both TIP42s.]
The on/off switch is before the converter just after the 47000uf capacitor.If I start with the converter on it is more difficult.
We can have a switch at the input and at the output.
@gauschor
the picture you posted is 100% to what I have used.The circuits have some 0.1uf capacitors just for filtering... but that is not important.
Diodes on top of the bridge rectifiers are not 1n4007, are 1n4001. I am sure I can get better rectifiers but this is what i had.The voltage drop is quite high and nothing works as it should.
I had only a 5w bulb as with the 20w bulb the dc converter gets hot after some time.
I tried to add the bulb before the dc convertor but there is more than 12 volts and the bulb will not last.
This DC converter is max 3amp but I am very happy about it plus the price was very low. Nice device and I think that all people should have one, it helps a lot in any other builds where people are trying self looping.I has even load protection and thermal protection too.I have tried for a second a 50w bulb as load and it switched off imediately.
[nul-points:
if we put the load on the cap side then none of its energy gets wasted by the converter, am i right?]
I am using the bulb at dc regulator output only because before the regulator I have about 15 volts, but I could use 2 10w bulbs in series there.
I have tried adding a 50w bulb and everything stopped.The most I can take out is about 25w, after that even if I add just 2-3 watts more the system slows down a lot going to a stop.
